Some thoughts on my climbing standards

Well, I've had time to sit back to reflect on my current climbing fitness. It's actually been a good time, having tried a 25 meter long route last week, and an 8 meter long route in between giving me a good benchmark for my strenght stamina.

The conclusions? Well, my power endurance is pretty good at present, I'm now able to climb pretty decently especially if the route is just sustained climbing from bottom to top. However, when the climbs get powerful and short, I'm in big trouble. That's big in capital letters. My fingers don't seem to be letting me down, it's my shoulder power, i.e. I'm not strong enough to squeeze the holds and make the big moves between the holds. I can hang every hold on the wall but when I have to move between them and it's a long way, that's where the difficulties begin.
I had realised this last year before leaving, however unfortunately it was very close to my departure date. Oh well. My experience from before I left? I required a gym to fix it, i.e. weight benches and the likes. A bouldering wall didn't show much improvements, I'm just natually weak in that area (my fingers have always been my saving grace on routes :) meaning I've something to work on.

Current plan is to buy a fingerboard in New Zealand with my pulley system for added weight, and use it in evenings after snowboarding. I'll have 4-6 weeks to sort it out. Bring. It. On. :)

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