Friday, July 23, 2010
Ceuse update 2
Another quick update from Ceuse, ideal on a soggy morning at the campsite. A week completed, all excuses of lacking fitness/form/consistency on rock have evaporated. The rock here is just so good also, I find it impossible to not get sucked into lots of routes. The hike in isn't taking as much of a toll either, so it means more energy for routes. The joys of Ceuse climbing means the first day or so involves adapting to the hike (3kms, 500+ metres of ascent), the altitude (crag is at 1900 metres so makes a tiny difference but only on first day) and the routes (length and the run-outs). Most are adapted to now although my current route has 6/7 metre-plus runouts which are pretty exciting. 9 bolts in 45 metres, jeebus! Whoever bolts here has a fun side, I love it! I'm back onsighting 7b's here again (surprised there was actually any I hadn't done also!) so time to start ramping up with some redpoints with the goal of improving on the onsight level later in the trip.
Naomi is going well also, ticked her first 7a+ a couple of days ago so she's got tons to go at now, 7a-7a+ has a huge selection of routes to go at here.
It's a weird vibe here so far, last weekend was insanely busy but the campsite is now pretty quiet. Enzo Otto, the 15-year old French superstar is here working Realization but seems to be the only big sponsored hero at present. Pretty cool to watch him climb, we saw him have a rest day by climbing an 8a and 8a+.
A big bunch of Northerners were out too, all going really well. Eddie Barbour was tearing it up in La Cascade, onsighting a bunch of the 7c's there. Seriously inspiring stuff.
Anyway, life is good, Ceuse is still phenomenal, the setting astounding. Roll on more fun climbing!
Funny story of the week: a certain bunch of well known UK climbers glued on holds in a cave below the crag for bouldering on many years ago. Why would you do this with all the amazing routes?!?! Still though, suppose it's dedication.
Hope everyone is out enjoying themselves over the summer!