I've Moved

In January 2014, I've moved to a whole new site!

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Monday, August 09, 2010

Ceuse update 8 - motivation and settling in

Once again no pictures - it's been too tricky with two of us in sectors at any one time. Hopefully now that we're climbing with Dave and co, we can start making an effort with it.

Motivation dipped for some reason for a couple of days last week, think it was that transition point in the middle of the trip where I went to having to spend a lot of time on individual routes and just falling off the same moves. Not that I was going badly, got pretty ill for a day last week but still managed to fall off a 7c onsight. From the very last hold after my hand slipped. Gutted, I wasn't even pumped. Still though, it did bring about an interesting experience of no shouting, no annoyance. Just an 'oh well, it'll be there to do tomorrow again (when I can see straight)'.  I didn't really think about it, but a few people watching were wondering that I should have been really annoyed?! I don't know, it's just another climb and I saw lots of positives in my climbing - vision of how to make movements, pacing, recovery, etc that I couldn't see a reason to get angry! Since then, it's been more time in this area on a beautiful route called Petit Tom (8a). It's cool for me, very small crimpy holds up an overhanging wall with terrible footholds (a coin on it's side would be regarded as large at times to stand on). I'm strong on this type of style but never before with such poor feet so it's really working me and I can see improvements already. Future ambition is to onsight the 8a beside it which is exact same style - an incentive to come back here in a year or so.

In between, Naomi is settling into some 7a+'s that are really working here. One that is super technical and pumpy, a nemesis from last year. She's still finding it hard so she's putting in the time now to learn better technique from it. She's also getting on Petite Illusion, the classic of the crag at 7a+. This is more steeper/overhanging which she is definitely struggling on so will continue to see gains on. Motivation is back up again though so all good!

More general Ceuse news? Gabriel Moroni and David Lama are on for a race to tick an old project route on the Berlin sector - no holds up an overhanging wall. Enzo Otto (age 16) is projecting Realization (9a+) after the start lost some holds - it's now Font 8b just to get off the ground. hardcore. Little Alex (age 16) has finished many of the 8b's and now moved onto the 8c's. Bewildering. Loads of the 8b - 8c's are getting ascents and everyone is generally having a good time. And of course, the pizzeria is amazing ;)

Positive vibes to all worldwide reading this!