90%

A snippet I saw in an magazine years ago, it holds true from my own experience of meeting many of the world's top climbers too. the author of the article has pretty valid credentials too.... The other side of this is most really good climbers let themselves forget this, especially when training others!

"If you only ever give 90% in training then you will only ever give 90% when it matters."

- Michael Owen, footballer (thanks to @tomrandall2 for pointing out the quote)



Do you give all when climbing/training? [On a side note, it doesn't necessarily mean doing every training at 100% of your limit - which would lead to injury/burn-out/etc - but that you really make sure you're giving 100% attention at all sessions, be it recovery, endurance, max strength, conditioning, etc].

Additional note: training fingers every day is not the way to get strong fingers. You're human, climbing is like any other sport, so you get stronger when resting - not when training. Learned that the hard way, hopefully someone reads this and saves themselves the time.