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Thursday, May 16, 2013

La Sportiva's Training Video(s)

so the Internet is abuzz with information, knowledge, new training methods, etc - countless websites/blogs/etc to hit for more ideas.

One of the latest ones has been a La Sportiva-sponsored video of Sean McColl's training methods while on the World Cup circuit. See below.





Of course, there's new ideas in there and the general concept of the video and it's generating awareness of specific training actions that other climbers do is fantastic. Getting a glimpse into other high level participants activities and methods is only a good thing, even if at the very least it gets you thinking about ways to improve yourself.
I'd be willing to bet that you'll have seen people out there trying various methods they've seen in videos or on the 'net. I've done it myself!

The positive aspect of these is I find that they are great stimulants, sometimes (or often) giving motivation to keep progressing, staying open to new ideas. It even stimulates the mind to keep making small steps in progress.

But the only thing is that this is just one little element of the above climber's training, and with no other information. If you're looking for a good discussion (warning: it'll take time to read), head over to the excellent discussion ongoing on ClimbingNarc.com. Dan Hague, writer of Self-Coached Climber: The Guide to Movement, Training, Performance, and another experienced coach from the States are giving a great write-up of training in general, why just looking at individual videos such as this is not perfectly beneficial, and little nuggets such as "for any athlete their performance level can be described in terms of the amount of time they spend doing effective vs. ineffective training." Of course, many will look at this (and many will probably have stopped reading by now ;), as only relevant to elite climbers but it's the complete opposite - this is probably more relevance to the intermeidate climber (i.e. climbing a couple of years so basic development work and capable of improving)

Climbing and performance is in very early stages, realistically only kicking off in the last 30-odd years (with the obvious exceptions such as John Gill back in the 60's and 70's), so we'd all do well to continue to learn, stay open, and speak to any climbing coaches you know (and not just the ones that are coaches for climbing a high level - as mentioned in the ClimbingNarc thread:
.....well established in sport science that top performers in all sports do not understand very well what contributes to their high level of performance. This is counter intuitive to us because we see their skill and conclude that their superior performance must arise from a superior knowledge. The research shows that this is not the case. Really Its the job of sport scientists and coaches to be able to quantify which activities contribute to high level performance and which do not. Its actually asking a great deal of any athlete to not only be a top performer but to also know why he or she is a top performer.




The other one to appear was also through La Sportiva's account, of Courtney Sanders training while injured. It was a fantastic demonstration of work that can be done for strengthening, and tied in nicely with my own experimentation with Personal Trainers.


Thoughts?