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Thursday, March 01, 2007

The magic number


quick shake on small edge. Come on, breathe...
Twist, left hand up onto 4mm edge. Ignore stinging in the index finger (no skin left).
Drop the left foot, hang and latch one-and-half-finger pocket. Perfect
Left foot way across.
Breathe.
Stop. Focus. Squeeze on that pocket. hard. aim.
Lunge for 3-finger credit-card edge with left.
Shit, I'm still on the wall. What do I do now?
Straighten, and right hand to small single-knuckle edge.
O.k. foot up, and get both hands side by side.
Breathe.
Shake out (that's a surprise, these edges are tiny!).
Feet up again, and lunge to the stalectite hanging down.
Yes!
In the bag.


8a+. 5.13c. 30. Whatever international grading scheme it's in, who cares, it took me quite a bit of effort to get to this level (especially as we've no bolted climbing in Ireland!).

That's only the last 3 metres of the route. There was another 15 below that, all overhanging by 20 degrees.....

Lower down and watch the sea for a few minutes. Don't want to forget the thoughts from this route :)

How do you treat yourself after challenging myself to this level? a two-hour kayak out to one of the islands off-shore with Eimear (another Irish friend I know who's passing through). Wrecked now, but I can live with it.

Thanks to Eimear for getting to the pictures, and Cory for holding my rope. You better get it next day!



How I looked after dragging my sorry ass to the top of the route :)