September 2000-ish I think. Dalkey Quarry. Spot the newbie-stuff: Soloing. Wearing a harness. And carrying a belay device.
Guess the route: Steve McG isn't allowed enter, or anyone on Google+ :)
p.s. miss those shoes!
Wednesday, August 31, 2011
Saturday, August 27, 2011
Friday, August 19, 2011
Progression
Wow, I didn't think it would make that much of a difference! Yesterday, I discussed the fact that on the first crux I'd found that I was capable of staying on, even with feet off. On yesterday's afternoon attempts, knowing this fact meant that when I got to the exact point, there was no nervousness, just a complete confidence in ability to pull through. The first crux went easily, although I did slip off soon after. Still though, I'm really learning so much from this experience of trying a route of this kind. It's comforting that many other find this much harder than the supposed grade - I guess they all are of a similar style of climbing to me, less steep being a preference. In the end, I came off three times, but the upper crux again being a silly mistake. I almost linked to the chains from the 5th quickdraw to the chains. So close.
And yet, today is my last day, and I've to get my draws off Les Colonettes which means I can't try it again anymore. Still though, the experience on this route was brilliant, truly amazing. I know I'm capable of climbing 8b/+ (from the few I've tried now) with the right time and planning, but I now know I'm capable of doing a steep, burly 8b which changes the game a little.
As usual of course, having a local project would help - I'm developing a bad habit of getting really close on routes and then never getting back to them due to distance. Such is life I suppose for someone based in the UK or Ireland! I'll just have to up my game for future trips and make sure I've got the excess strength and mindset to send them quicker :)
Much of this trip's idea and focus has been based off articles like this one: "For Those Who Refuse To Work The Moves... Do You Know Where Your Limits Lie?". On most trips, my focus is just traveling, experiencing the location, and trying lots of routes that I'll either on-sight or do on first or second go. As a side benefit of course, it means that I on-sight 95% of routes up to the mid-to-high 7's - and I can do it on any style of rock usually with a day of arriving. But the benefits of trying something really hard has been refreshing! It's definitely not my limit this route, but my physical condition and mindset after a difficult year meant that it was perfect to get on. Now, if only the start hold hadn't fallen off Biographie...... ;)
Have a great weekend all!
Today's motivation, courtesy of UKclimbing:
And yet, today is my last day, and I've to get my draws off Les Colonettes which means I can't try it again anymore. Still though, the experience on this route was brilliant, truly amazing. I know I'm capable of climbing 8b/+ (from the few I've tried now) with the right time and planning, but I now know I'm capable of doing a steep, burly 8b which changes the game a little.
As usual of course, having a local project would help - I'm developing a bad habit of getting really close on routes and then never getting back to them due to distance. Such is life I suppose for someone based in the UK or Ireland! I'll just have to up my game for future trips and make sure I've got the excess strength and mindset to send them quicker :)
Much of this trip's idea and focus has been based off articles like this one: "For Those Who Refuse To Work The Moves... Do You Know Where Your Limits Lie?". On most trips, my focus is just traveling, experiencing the location, and trying lots of routes that I'll either on-sight or do on first or second go. As a side benefit of course, it means that I on-sight 95% of routes up to the mid-to-high 7's - and I can do it on any style of rock usually with a day of arriving. But the benefits of trying something really hard has been refreshing! It's definitely not my limit this route, but my physical condition and mindset after a difficult year meant that it was perfect to get on. Now, if only the start hold hadn't fallen off Biographie...... ;)
Have a great weekend all!
Today's motivation, courtesy of UKclimbing:
Thursday, August 18, 2011
Different Days
What a mix of fortunes and experiences trying something much above your limit brings. Three days ago was not a good day on L'Ami. The start felt desperate, I was struggling even more on the middle jump/press, and the I was finding the top crux desperate! Then I watched an Italian bloke destroy it, almost flashing it on his first go. Inspiring to say the least and a very evident reminder of the potential gains I can get from trying something like this route. The less psychological part was another Italian, who had just split his finger and was giving up on this route, turning around to describe that he lives 3-4 hours drive away and he will come back in a few weeks when he feels like it - he has loads of other sport climbing in his vicinity of a different style to keep him occupied....jealous!
Two days ago was a different story completely. Yes, I still fell off it a few times, but in the middle of the first crux which involves some ridiculously tiny holds, my feet came off. And I was still on, managing to re-place feet before then falling off. It's interesting, just realizing that I can hang the holds with my feet off is a massive psychological boost. The middle crux jump/press (I haven't decided whether it's really a jump or not) was also feeling much easier and linkable from the ground, and the upper crux is now o.k again after I found out I'd been using one of the holds completely wrong - I'm actually impressed I could even do it before, after finding out the easier method! As another Italian described, now it's just a case of "being lucky", I just might make some big links on it if the sun shines the right way, tie my shoelaces in the correct order, and sell my soul to the climbing gods at the right time. For your amusement, here's the old footage I have that I referenced on the this post.
Other than that, I finally got around to doing Cent Patates 7b+ on the left side of the Biographie wall. Possibly one of the best routes at Ceuse, a really fun onsight to finish off the day as a warm-down. I also had a play on Les Colonettes. It's a cool looking tufa right up the middle of the Biographie wall. As it turns out, the reports I'd heard were relatively accurate. The first 4 meters of it is chipped so that you can access the tufa, and unfortunately chipped in a not very fun manner. A weird frustrating move that is completely different to the rest of the the route which is really unfortunate as the rest of the line is so much fun. The tufa is really fun to climb, if over a little quickly, and I'm now just wishing I had a longer rope so that I could try the mega-extension. Even before I had to cut the end off the rope, at 70 meters it isn't long enough..........
Two days left so off to enjoy the sun. happy climbing all!
Other than that, I finally got around to doing Cent Patates 7b+ on the left side of the Biographie wall. Possibly one of the best routes at Ceuse, a really fun onsight to finish off the day as a warm-down. I also had a play on Les Colonettes. It's a cool looking tufa right up the middle of the Biographie wall. As it turns out, the reports I'd heard were relatively accurate. The first 4 meters of it is chipped so that you can access the tufa, and unfortunately chipped in a not very fun manner. A weird frustrating move that is completely different to the rest of the the route which is really unfortunate as the rest of the line is so much fun. The tufa is really fun to climb, if over a little quickly, and I'm now just wishing I had a longer rope so that I could try the mega-extension. Even before I had to cut the end off the rope, at 70 meters it isn't long enough..........
Two days left so off to enjoy the sun. happy climbing all!
Monday, August 15, 2011
Keeping you Honest - a post from Naomi
 |
| A busy day at Sector Berlin, Ceuse. |
As a diversion from Neal's musings I've decided to join in the blogging for some reflections of my own. This may be a good one to read if you have the time or it's raining!
Yesterday underneath Biography wall in Ceuse we got chatting to some friends of ours from Bristol. Pretty strong climbers by any standards - they had tried some routes at their grade in Ceuse and received generous amounts of smackdown! One guy joked that you really have nowhere to hide on some of the routes, that they 'keep you honest'.
I think for me this is why I really love Ceuse and route climbing in general. As much honesty as you have to have with yourself and your abilities there is an equal humility. No getting too big for your boots here, with 12 year olds on your left romping up to 7b/7c warm up s and the next superhero on your right breaking some new project. Having been here for 3 summers now, I've also seen many people put in their place as such - or at least feel like they have.
I think this year in Ceuse has really showed me that generally for route climbing here, you need strong fingers and lots and lots of fitness! No fancy core/shoulder/back/leg strengthening sessions needed - just strong fingers, fitness and mentality (you'll get enough of this from constant steep climbing anyway).
I think to succeed here, the question to be constantly asking yourself, is how do I figure this out for me? How can I work this move? Where can I rest? What is the best solution for my abilities? Forget about what everyone else is doing and tune into your own climbing. I think this is where there can be a lot of intimidation and dejection.
I've trained for climbing for 2 years now. Last year was my first year training and everything was a gain obviously from my level of 0! After last summer I really wanted to concentrate on bouldering and using it as a tool to make me stronger for moves on routes. This has definitely helped and having that extra power does show through. Its an area I really shy away from, being attracted to longer, technical more endurancy climbing.
I had a trip in June to Gorge du Tarn, prior to the trip I worked 4 weeks of complete endurance. It paid off on my trip and I sent my hardest redpoint and some good flashes/onsights. When I got home I had a month of no work and time to train. I was doing a lot but on reflection now - nothing specific. I got lost in a disbelief that I had enough endurance so I didn't need to work that, I focused on trying to get my strength up but with no real direction. I took my eye off the ball.
Major lesson learnt! I lost any endurance that I had and didn't necessarily need some of the bouldering strength I'd been trying to gain. At the end of the day, it's brilliant to be away and just on real rock, but for me the ultimate aim is to always feel like I'm learning, like I'm making progress and that the efforts I'm putting in will reap rewards.
For future trips I feel it's really important to ask, what kind of problems/routes am I training for, what do I want to achieve and be specific. In this way, you'll stay focused and hopefully any surprises will be positive!
In ticklist related news, for 2010 my aim was to get 10 new 7's in the season - achieved. Following this, for 2011, it was 11 - I got 3 7's in the Tarn (including a new hardest grade), 1 in Orpierre and 4 so far in Ceuse - so with 3 more routes to reach my goal, hopes are high!
In interesting statistics, I worked out, so far this year I've had approximately 40 days on real rock - this will probably be the sum total, bar a bit of bouldering and a trip at Christmas. Interesting to think if you consider mental conditioning as part of the training regime. Every trip requires real psyche and focus to believe in your capabilities or days are lost trying to build confidence, fear of falling, climbing around people in busy crags, etc.
We don't have an affluence of outdoor sport climbing in Ireland - but with the right attitude - achievement is as close as you want it.
Sunday, August 14, 2011
bouldering in Ireland
So, with the amazing new guidebook from Dave, and the imminent arrival of the new brilliant venture in Dublin, gravity climbing, is it worth starting to think about how to handle the extra influx of boulderers starting to appear at the venues? Considering they're all quite small in size, do we need to maximize their protection? This is all mentioned in the guidebook but is there more that should be done?
- careful brushing of holds (nothing too aggressive on existing problems)
- ensure footwear is cleaned extensively before pulling on. this one is heavily promoted and sign-posted in NZ - grit and muck on rockshoes works like sandpaper wearing out the friction quicker. Having seen the way many people (including myself at times) just run around in dirty rockshoes in Wicklow perhaps needs more consideration?
- cleaning off chalk regularly.
- the other obvious ones like litter, not leaving pads/gear/tarps visible at the areas (definitely not an issue now, but could become worse?)
Saturday, August 13, 2011
Ceuse catch-up
O.k., so this took a little longer than planned. Put it down to needing a holiday and spending some time doing that thing - climbing! A positive sign was also that yesterday, I didn't realize what day it was which we all know is a sign you're really on holiday :)
Anyway, here's the short catch-up for the past couple of months:
- Basically every weekend (i.e. Friday and Sunday evening) was spent either traveling to and from Ireland, or collecting Naomi from the airport. Losing two evenings a week turns out to be quite a lot and leaves you permanently worn out. Two years of it is now over though, boom!
- A brilliant trip to Siurana again at Easter. A couple of days at Monstant and Margalef too. Ticked a lovely 8a (in the rain, spicy), came close on another at Monstant and had a great onsight attempt on a 7c+. Climbed some beautiful 6's and 7's also, always a great crag. Tried a cool 8b, doing all the moves quickly. Unfortunately ran out of time to try it again at the end of the trip. Tried another 8b on the very last day while completely wrecked and proved that on-the-limit climbing is not a good idea when wrecked :)
- Managed a couple of weekends at Kilsney. Climbed the fun 'Comedy' 7c (it's not a classic by any means though.....) and ticked the not-so 'Soft Option' 8a (or is it 8a+? local upgrading may decide - my thoughts are it feels about 8a until you try to put all the moves together).
- Got a couple of evenings at Raven Tor and Chee Dale. Worked moves on Ben's Roof, and had it down to one rest. Almost......
- Tried to do as much as possible climbing wise but struggled for time. As I alluded to in this previous post, I was doing a lot of the indoor climbing at the Works. Yes, it's an amazing wall but for transferring to route climbing, it's not perfect and it's currently showing :)
More recently, I've absolutely loving life. There's nothing like spending all your time in the outdoors to do so - fresh air, sunshine and exercise make Neal a happy camper :) We ended up spending 5 days at Orpierre at the beginning to re-acquaint ourselves with climbing after a couple of weeks off, and also because I needed a holiday. Ceuse is amazing but it's a bit work intensive so the chill-out in 30+ degree heat at Orpierre seemed idea. Managed to get myself up two 7c's and drop a 3rd onsight right at the top. Subsequent attempts all weirdly ended up in failure - the most amusing being me exploding off some holds right at the top in sweltering heat. Naomi also ticked a beautiful 7a she'd tried last year and was causing trouble.
Since then, we've been at the crag of all crags, Ceuse. My 6th time here (or is it 5?) and it's still amazing. The people, the campsite, the campsite owners, the view from the crag, and the climbing all make a perfect situation. It's overly busy this year, but even still it's hard to complain as everyone is so laid back and of a similar mindset.
This year, I'm taking a different focus trying some routes that are harder than I can imagine right now. Some of the challenges are because I'm just not as strong as last year for this type of climbing (stronger shoulders but fingers aren't as strong - the nature of the bouldering I've been doing it seems), and namely as the route of choice is not my style. I tried it last year, the classic "L'ami du tout la monde" 8b - bouldery and really steep, over a relatively short distance. But I'm loving the experience! it's 10 bolts long, and so far it's down to 4 rest points (and close to being done in either 2 or 3). I've no idea if I'll do it this trip but the experience has been great. In comparison to the one I tried in Siurana (long, vertical), this is not exactly my style (which is what you should be working when aiming to go up a level) but I'm just loving the experience on this thing. Insights: I was strong enough finger-wise to do this a couple of years ago, but don't have the power-sustaining levels for it (especially after not working big routes like it recently) - that's brilliant! Anyway, who knows what will happen with it - psyche!!!!!!!!
I'm also the most unfit I've ever been - the hill is actually taking a toll this year on my legs! Must sort that out this winter :)
Side notes, onsighted possibly one of the best routes I've done at Ceuse yesterday - can't believe I've never been on it. "Cent Patates"7b+ is quality, can't recommend it enough!
There's also a decent sized Irish contingent this year here - really impressive to see them all trying hard across all the grades. The scene in Ireland seems really motivated right now so it's great to see :)
On that note, hope everyone is off enjoying their activity of choice - make the most of it!
Anyway, here's the short catch-up for the past couple of months:
- Basically every weekend (i.e. Friday and Sunday evening) was spent either traveling to and from Ireland, or collecting Naomi from the airport. Losing two evenings a week turns out to be quite a lot and leaves you permanently worn out. Two years of it is now over though, boom!
- A brilliant trip to Siurana again at Easter. A couple of days at Monstant and Margalef too. Ticked a lovely 8a (in the rain, spicy), came close on another at Monstant and had a great onsight attempt on a 7c+. Climbed some beautiful 6's and 7's also, always a great crag. Tried a cool 8b, doing all the moves quickly. Unfortunately ran out of time to try it again at the end of the trip. Tried another 8b on the very last day while completely wrecked and proved that on-the-limit climbing is not a good idea when wrecked :)
- Managed a couple of weekends at Kilsney. Climbed the fun 'Comedy' 7c (it's not a classic by any means though.....) and ticked the not-so 'Soft Option' 8a (or is it 8a+? local upgrading may decide - my thoughts are it feels about 8a until you try to put all the moves together).
- Got a couple of evenings at Raven Tor and Chee Dale. Worked moves on Ben's Roof, and had it down to one rest. Almost......
- Tried to do as much as possible climbing wise but struggled for time. As I alluded to in this previous post, I was doing a lot of the indoor climbing at the Works. Yes, it's an amazing wall but for transferring to route climbing, it's not perfect and it's currently showing :)
More recently, I've absolutely loving life. There's nothing like spending all your time in the outdoors to do so - fresh air, sunshine and exercise make Neal a happy camper :) We ended up spending 5 days at Orpierre at the beginning to re-acquaint ourselves with climbing after a couple of weeks off, and also because I needed a holiday. Ceuse is amazing but it's a bit work intensive so the chill-out in 30+ degree heat at Orpierre seemed idea. Managed to get myself up two 7c's and drop a 3rd onsight right at the top. Subsequent attempts all weirdly ended up in failure - the most amusing being me exploding off some holds right at the top in sweltering heat. Naomi also ticked a beautiful 7a she'd tried last year and was causing trouble.
Since then, we've been at the crag of all crags, Ceuse. My 6th time here (or is it 5?) and it's still amazing. The people, the campsite, the campsite owners, the view from the crag, and the climbing all make a perfect situation. It's overly busy this year, but even still it's hard to complain as everyone is so laid back and of a similar mindset.
This year, I'm taking a different focus trying some routes that are harder than I can imagine right now. Some of the challenges are because I'm just not as strong as last year for this type of climbing (stronger shoulders but fingers aren't as strong - the nature of the bouldering I've been doing it seems), and namely as the route of choice is not my style. I tried it last year, the classic "L'ami du tout la monde" 8b - bouldery and really steep, over a relatively short distance. But I'm loving the experience! it's 10 bolts long, and so far it's down to 4 rest points (and close to being done in either 2 or 3). I've no idea if I'll do it this trip but the experience has been great. In comparison to the one I tried in Siurana (long, vertical), this is not exactly my style (which is what you should be working when aiming to go up a level) but I'm just loving the experience on this thing. Insights: I was strong enough finger-wise to do this a couple of years ago, but don't have the power-sustaining levels for it (especially after not working big routes like it recently) - that's brilliant! Anyway, who knows what will happen with it - psyche!!!!!!!!
I'm also the most unfit I've ever been - the hill is actually taking a toll this year on my legs! Must sort that out this winter :)
Side notes, onsighted possibly one of the best routes I've done at Ceuse yesterday - can't believe I've never been on it. "Cent Patates"7b+ is quality, can't recommend it enough!
There's also a decent sized Irish contingent this year here - really impressive to see them all trying hard across all the grades. The scene in Ireland seems really motivated right now so it's great to see :)
On that note, hope everyone is off enjoying their activity of choice - make the most of it!
Sunday, August 07, 2011
summer holidays
4 metres above the last bolt.
Can't reach the next one. Last time you took the plummet, you hooked your foot behind the rope (for the first time ever) and landed on your back after taking a whipper. That hurt. I thought this was a recovery holiday - I'm not physically up to this this year!
No idea what the next hold looks like but probably not as good as I want it to be.
Oh well, focus.....believe....and go.
Crap, not a hold. And off I go again!
Big runouts on small holds can only mean one thing. Ceuse 2011.
Lots to catch up on - it's been an epic hectic, tiring couple of months. Stay tuned!
Can't reach the next one. Last time you took the plummet, you hooked your foot behind the rope (for the first time ever) and landed on your back after taking a whipper. That hurt. I thought this was a recovery holiday - I'm not physically up to this this year!
No idea what the next hold looks like but probably not as good as I want it to be.
Oh well, focus.....believe....and go.
Crap, not a hold. And off I go again!
Big runouts on small holds can only mean one thing. Ceuse 2011.
Lots to catch up on - it's been an epic hectic, tiring couple of months. Stay tuned!
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