Wow, I didn't think it would make that much of a difference! Yesterday, I discussed the fact that on the first crux I'd found that I was capable of staying on, even with feet off. On yesterday's afternoon attempts, knowing this fact meant that when I got to the exact point, there was no nervousness, just a complete confidence in ability to pull through. The first crux went easily, although I did slip off soon after. Still though, I'm really learning so much from this experience of trying a route of this kind. It's comforting that many other find this much harder than the supposed grade - I guess they all are of a similar style of climbing to me, less steep being a preference. In the end, I came off three times, but the upper crux again being a silly mistake. I almost linked to the chains from the 5th quickdraw to the chains. So close.
And yet, today is my last day, and I've to get my draws off Les Colonettes which means I can't try it again anymore. Still though, the experience on this route was brilliant, truly amazing. I know I'm capable of climbing 8b/+ (from the few I've tried now) with the right time and planning, but I now know I'm capable of doing a steep, burly 8b which changes the game a little.
As usual of course, having a local project would help - I'm developing a bad habit of getting really close on routes and then never getting back to them due to distance. Such is life I suppose for someone based in the UK or Ireland! I'll just have to up my game for future trips and make sure I've got the excess strength and mindset to send them quicker :)
Much of this trip's idea and focus has been based off articles like this one: "For Those Who Refuse To Work The Moves... Do You Know Where Your Limits Lie?". On most trips, my focus is just traveling, experiencing the location, and trying lots of routes that I'll either on-sight or do on first or second go. As a side benefit of course, it means that I on-sight 95% of routes up to the mid-to-high 7's - and I can do it on any style of rock usually with a day of arriving. But the benefits of trying something really hard has been refreshing! It's definitely not my limit this route, but my physical condition and mindset after a difficult year meant that it was perfect to get on. Now, if only the start hold hadn't fallen off Biographie...... ;)
Have a great weekend all!
Today's motivation, courtesy of UKclimbing: