Adventures at the Head
An awesome weekend. Actually starting to show some form (eventually I might add).
Climbing with Squib, so started on Conchubair (E2), and after admiring the route beside it, we ended up on The Mask (E5). For run-outs, I felt it deserved E5 but difficulty didn't feel problematic. Although I must say I came off after going looking for difficulty. It's strange I seem to have gotten it into my head that the routes should be harder for me so I ended up jumping out of the crack line and getting stuck on this wonderful foot ledge and unable to move. Cheers to Squib for not passing out due to boredom, until I got bored myself and lunged for a hold! Gave Squib the onsight then, which he got without troubles (by not jumping out of the crack ;). I wasn't too impressed with the gear up high though!
Amazing first pitch however, really atmospheric as you traverse the whole face to get to the arete!!!!
After that, we finished off with Ocean Boulevard (E3). Unbelieveably green, so even more respect to Squib for getting the first full-on-jamming pitch clean as he removed grit/grime while climbing. First pitch has that look of looseness about it seemed o.k. on it after all. Make sure to check your gear though.
Next day, we kicked off with Toby Jug (E1). Magic route, and I got to practise some more jamming. Actually started to enjoy, especially after I forgot the belay and ended up doing the whole route in one pitch. Ooops.
And then, the route of all routes: Track of the Cat (E4 6a). I almost felt a bit gutted to be having to second it and not get to onsight it, but the climbing is so good I'm just glad to have been on it. Absolutely amazing climbing up this wonderful crack line that just keeps coming at you. If the rating scheme only goes to 3 stars, this one deserves 4! And even classier to see Squib catch a fall one-handed after his foothold snapped off! I'd say the hold will look well on his fireplace for a while after that. We were both so chilled after that (and there was some incoming showers), that we didn't care to be finishing up after that. Quality line, and I must say that Jolly Roger and Blade Runner look like quality lines beside it also. There's always next time........
How'd anyone else who was there get on?
Climbing with Squib, so started on Conchubair (E2), and after admiring the route beside it, we ended up on The Mask (E5). For run-outs, I felt it deserved E5 but difficulty didn't feel problematic. Although I must say I came off after going looking for difficulty. It's strange I seem to have gotten it into my head that the routes should be harder for me so I ended up jumping out of the crack line and getting stuck on this wonderful foot ledge and unable to move. Cheers to Squib for not passing out due to boredom, until I got bored myself and lunged for a hold! Gave Squib the onsight then, which he got without troubles (by not jumping out of the crack ;). I wasn't too impressed with the gear up high though!
Amazing first pitch however, really atmospheric as you traverse the whole face to get to the arete!!!!
After that, we finished off with Ocean Boulevard (E3). Unbelieveably green, so even more respect to Squib for getting the first full-on-jamming pitch clean as he removed grit/grime while climbing. First pitch has that look of looseness about it seemed o.k. on it after all. Make sure to check your gear though.
Next day, we kicked off with Toby Jug (E1). Magic route, and I got to practise some more jamming. Actually started to enjoy, especially after I forgot the belay and ended up doing the whole route in one pitch. Ooops.
And then, the route of all routes: Track of the Cat (E4 6a). I almost felt a bit gutted to be having to second it and not get to onsight it, but the climbing is so good I'm just glad to have been on it. Absolutely amazing climbing up this wonderful crack line that just keeps coming at you. If the rating scheme only goes to 3 stars, this one deserves 4! And even classier to see Squib catch a fall one-handed after his foothold snapped off! I'd say the hold will look well on his fireplace for a while after that. We were both so chilled after that (and there was some incoming showers), that we didn't care to be finishing up after that. Quality line, and I must say that Jolly Roger and Blade Runner look like quality lines beside it also. There's always next time........
How'd anyone else who was there get on?
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