Thursday, April 22, 2010
The Tor, trashed finger, some new training books, update
First some nice interesting articles for those interested:
Joe Kinder showing how it is to work super-hard and become a pro-climber, and all the jobs it took to get to that point. Inspiring to see the dedication.......post 1, post 2.
For those bored and somehow stuck indoors this weekend, the
Just a quick check-in from a quiet mid-week. I've finally had to accept that my course is swallowing all my time and major climbing activities are on the back-burner for now. That's not to say that I'm out of the scene but that I'm just not going to make the most of the improving weather as it comes on. Such is life, it'll lead to positives in coming months so that can only be a good thing! It's a good lesson though in having to pace myself, I'm way to worn out to be considering big climbing sessions in the evenings after work for now. Not for long.....
Other than that, I needed some inspiration from this, and the fact of my car being killed in an accident (which doesn't help getting to crags anyway), so grabbed a few new climbing books to peruse when I've free time. It's 9 out of 10 climbers and The Self Coached Climber (amazon links), both of whom come highly regarded. I'm a big believer in educating yourself as much as possible in your hobby, and I can't believe I've waited this long to get my hands on the latter book, it being one of the benchmark books in the last 10-15 years (and almost as valid now I believe as when it came out). I'll write up a review once I've gotten through them. Don't expect it anytime soon, I've enough research and reading to be doing :)
In between that, I did manage a day out at Raven Tor last weekend. It was pretty funny, I've still got a dodgy finger (another good example that if you're not climbing consistently, not resting well, and not training properly, you get injured!) so can't crimp which isn't so ideal for UK-limestone. Still though, it's making me focus even more on open-handed (no pain at all) so I'm sure there's benefits from that to be made! Anyway, got on Rattle & Hum (8a), one that I'd done the boulder problem crux as far as the first bolt. I'd been told, only one hard move after that and then easy to the chains (it's only about 8 metres in height, if even!). I'd cruised the bit off the ground when I worked it months ago and it felt no different this time (a V8 boulder), but the next move was horrific! Suffice to say, I've a hole in my pinkie finger big enough to put another finger into (those on Facebook will have been lucky, or unlucky enough to see it) after blowing off the move so all further attempts were scrapped. Dave, my belayer is looking super-solid on Mecca (8b), that'll go soon, I'd say. The other strong locals were all looking close on their respective projects. It's pretty inspiring/intimidating/motivating/demoralising (in no order) to see so many people hiking hard climbs.
To finish off, I'd a play on Powerband (or is it Staminaband, whatever, the shorter Font 7c one) and touched the holds on Ben's roof (7c). The former is mad, stretched out moves, super polished footholds and the hardest move right at the very end. ouch. Ben's looks sweet, super technical, toe & heel hooks, sneaky knee-bars, long. Good challenges if I can find the time to get on them. As always, one of the locals ticked the traverse and made it look like he was getting out of bed. sobering!
Since then, nada. No car, lots of work stuff getting in the way, life goes on. I've had to sustain myself with the board for now in the room (can't even get to the Foundry!) but am really focusing what I'm doing. Currently 45 minute sessions, but I can barely use my fingers after them so they're pretty hard. We'll see.......