Fatal Deviation
....is one of the coolest videos I've ever seen. O.k. maybe not, but if anyone is interested in seeing a movie made in County Meath in Ireland, make sure to get a copy of this! Just watch this trailer and you'll understand what you've been missing all along:
Other than that, it's the summer so been getting progressively more active. Been out climbing with Dave and Caroline a lot and it's awesome watching how well they're both going. Proof that regular consistent climbing, on top of a great basic level of fitness will do exceptionally well! Super inspiring too, as my course had taken it's toll on me and I realized in the past few weeks just how much fitness/strength/form I've lost. Still though, the only way is up and motivation has properly returned so game on!
Spent a few weekends at Dinbren with Dave - ticking stuff up to mid 7's, but not having a send of any of the 8's yet. I'm close on the one that Dave did last week, but need to get back on it now.
Last weekend was the weekend to top them all though. We ended up at LPT for my first experience of Statement of Youth, the super-classic 8a.
Wow........beautiful movement, technical, pumpy, everything you could want. Had a quick work of it, then a quick burn afterwards to dial in the moves. Genuinely awesome line, I can't wait to get back on it now that I know the moves. To finish off, we then jumped into Parseilla's Cave for a quick feel of the holds on Lou Ferrino. Burly, but cool moves. As local climber, Doylo said, you could fall off any move on it. The Cave is weird, super polished holds but the climbing is surprisingly good and ridiculously technical for it's steepness - I can see why people get sucked into it!
We ended up with a light session on Sunday morning up at a local bouldering venue near Llangollen, and then headed to Nescliffe for Sunday afternoon - again my first experience of here. What fun lines! The rock is similar to Arapiles (slightly sandy sandstone), but completely different climbing from what I tried in Oz - vertical and technical moves with most of the difficulty usually resolved by footwork. We ended up top-roping (standard practice here) one of the classic E7's, took 3 goes to completely dial in the moves but we were hiking it by the end without any real rests. Both of us bailed on the lead though, it was the end of two intense days of climbing so not the smart move to go for the send in that condition. this was confirmed by waking up on Monday morning with achey forearms :)
My ticklist is now getting bigger though:
Bad Bad Boys (7c+) at LPT - tried again after a multi-year hiatus. Felt soooo easy than before, but need to try it fresh. Blind optimism tells me it'll go easily.
Statement of Youth (8a), LPT - brilliant, and with a pump, you could fall off any move near the top.
two 8a's at Dinbren - one I'm suffering on the first moves, the other I'm closer.
Will see if I have time before I head off for the summer. Speaking of which, who will I see in Ceuse this summer?
Other than that, it's the summer so been getting progressively more active. Been out climbing with Dave and Caroline a lot and it's awesome watching how well they're both going. Proof that regular consistent climbing, on top of a great basic level of fitness will do exceptionally well! Super inspiring too, as my course had taken it's toll on me and I realized in the past few weeks just how much fitness/strength/form I've lost. Still though, the only way is up and motivation has properly returned so game on!
Spent a few weekends at Dinbren with Dave - ticking stuff up to mid 7's, but not having a send of any of the 8's yet. I'm close on the one that Dave did last week, but need to get back on it now.
Last weekend was the weekend to top them all though. We ended up at LPT for my first experience of Statement of Youth, the super-classic 8a.
Wow........beautiful movement, technical, pumpy, everything you could want. Had a quick work of it, then a quick burn afterwards to dial in the moves. Genuinely awesome line, I can't wait to get back on it now that I know the moves. To finish off, we then jumped into Parseilla's Cave for a quick feel of the holds on Lou Ferrino. Burly, but cool moves. As local climber, Doylo said, you could fall off any move on it. The Cave is weird, super polished holds but the climbing is surprisingly good and ridiculously technical for it's steepness - I can see why people get sucked into it!
We ended up with a light session on Sunday morning up at a local bouldering venue near Llangollen, and then headed to Nescliffe for Sunday afternoon - again my first experience of here. What fun lines! The rock is similar to Arapiles (slightly sandy sandstone), but completely different climbing from what I tried in Oz - vertical and technical moves with most of the difficulty usually resolved by footwork. We ended up top-roping (standard practice here) one of the classic E7's, took 3 goes to completely dial in the moves but we were hiking it by the end without any real rests. Both of us bailed on the lead though, it was the end of two intense days of climbing so not the smart move to go for the send in that condition. this was confirmed by waking up on Monday morning with achey forearms :)
My ticklist is now getting bigger though:
Bad Bad Boys (7c+) at LPT - tried again after a multi-year hiatus. Felt soooo easy than before, but need to try it fresh. Blind optimism tells me it'll go easily.
Statement of Youth (8a), LPT - brilliant, and with a pump, you could fall off any move near the top.
two 8a's at Dinbren - one I'm suffering on the first moves, the other I'm closer.
Will see if I have time before I head off for the summer. Speaking of which, who will I see in Ceuse this summer?
Dude!!! Nice post! Nice tick list! Quality! LPT, LPT, LPT!
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