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In January 2014, I've moved to a whole new site!

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Monday, July 26, 2010

Ceuse update 2

I'll post better pics tomorrow morning once I get them off the camera but so just another text update for now!
 Says it all really :)

The 4-week ticklist - not sure if there's time or I'm capable of it all but damn if I"ll try!

The first week of Ceuse is now complete and I can definitely say I'm fully adjusted to the climbing. So far, we've spent most of the time on the vertical and slightly overhanging sections of Demi Lune and Berlin, and a final day yesterday at Orpierre to play on bigger holds (it's hilarious how easier it feels here after time at Ceuse, all the holds are huge :).
So far, onsights up to 7b have been the name of the game, and two routes off the ticklist for the summer. Joyeux Boucher has been the funnest so far, a 45+ meter pitch on Sector Demi Lune. The best part? only 11 bolts in all the distance, and three of them were in the first 8 meters. Savage run-outs up high (6-7 meters) with moves that were droppable. Fun :) Still though, went on the third (maybe 4th) try, after somehow blowing it right at the chains on an early attempt. Put it down to rusty-ness. That afternoon, after ticking that, tried to onsight Galaxy (7b+/c) and a slight mistake cost me that too. Still though, checked out the rest of the moves quickly and sent it 20 minutes later. Had a good fight on it, fitness is there but not fully. Still though it bodes well!
Other than that, life is as fun as ever here. Amusingly, I'm hanging with a bunch of Brits from the Sheffield area, can't seem to get away from them anymore ;)

Naomi is going well also, ticked two 7a's and a 7a+ in her first week, sets her up nicely for that grade range (of which there are tons of routes at 7a - 7a+ to go at).

As always, it's interesting seeing the different experiences of people at Ceuse. Everyone seems to struggle with the run-outs in some way, even the top-end people. As one guy put it, you can get comfortable at a grade, then go try a 6b+ and be close to having a nervous break-down from the slopey technical nature of the rock, along with the 3-meter spacing of the bolts. It's good though, keeps you on your toes (literally!).
it's really exceptional rock here too, the more I try the more I appreciate it. Slopers, crimps, pockets, jugs, it's got it all. Bring it on!