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Thursday, August 12, 2010

Ceuse 10 - meltdown!

Well that was a non-event! As always happens on a long climbing trip, energy levels slowly get degraded and it was one of those days yesterday - the walk-in felt awful and both of us were wrecked so we binned plans and headed to the tent for a bit of extra rest. It's interesting, I feel at this point now that my base level is back to normal after study last year but to start trying really hard routes (for me) that require 100% effort, I need 3-4 days off to let all muscles regenerate and then get back to routes. From trying the 8b's here, I'm physically capable of them, but arms are getting a little sore that a day off just won't fix. Still though, it'll just means I'll have to ensure form is perfect to succeed on the 8a's I'm on. The little elements that affect top performance!

Great news was an Australian friend of ours who succeeded on her long term goal, Petit Tom 8a. She'd tried it two years ago falling right at the very top, and had to spend multiple days again this year to do. The mental challenge to stick with it is pretty awe-inspiring and I've learnt a lot just from watching her.

Other news that you'll see if you read the main headlines. Adam Ondra onsighted Dures Limitees 8c and femme blanche 8a+, fell right at the top of No Futur 8c+ on the onsight, and redpointed a new 8c+.
In one day.
The top end guys are really pulling ahead of the 'normal' climbers now and it's amazing to watch!

Question, has anyone from Ireland redpointed 8c? What's the best success so far and is it inspiring others to reach their own new levels?

I'm off to eat ice-cream so have a good day :)


  1. I think Si Moore has redpointed 8c? Eddie Barbour can't be that far off either.

  2. thought that might be the case :) Now all we need to do is pry the information gained from this level out of them to share it around! :)

  3. Hi Paul don't think Si has done 8c. Think 8b is the hardest he's done. I know he's bouldered loads of 8bs/v13s though. Drop him an email and ask him.

    Eddie b has been doing 8bs for a while and the way hes going in edinburough it probably won't be long before he does 8c. He and ricky did Divided Years which is 8b+.

    Don't think anyone Irish has done 8c so you could be the first neil.

  4. There's quite a few people out there who are doing seriously high level routes! It'd be great to gather their knowledge (I've more to write on this soon after talking to a lot of international climbers).
    Eddie is going really well, just shows what is possible with a good wall nearby (anyone to take up that challenge in Ireland?!).
    As for 8c, if it happens for me, it'd be great but going to take the right dedication for that to happen. Who knows :)
    Divided Years is 8a also I believe, just really pumpy?

    Cheers for the comments guys :)

  5. Sorry not sure were I got 8b+ from. Think the repeat ascensionist said 8a+/b (dunne said 8c). Regardless its too hard for me! Good efforts at ceuse good to see irish climbers going so well. I'm off to buoux to climb some 6as :), do you know if theres any irish out that way?

  6. I think some of the Northern Irish gang are around Buoux although that could be old news and they've returned home......don't know anyone else, sorry.

    great news with all the Irish climbers, always great to see everyone having fun.
    whatever your grade is, as long as you're enjoying the climbing, keep it up!