I thought I'd post this little photo after being asked twice over the weekend about what I'm using for training at present.
Basically this is the climbing wall that has gotten me climbing my current grade....
Yep, a solitary fingerboard :)
to explain the setup. It's a Metolius fingerboard with cheap and cheerful pull-up bar below. As you can see, there's some cord tied off to the bar with a Petzl pulley on it, and a on old snaplink.
Basically, the snaplink can be dropped to the level it's in in the photo, or left clipped into a loop at the bar (also keeps it out of the way when not being used). For doing either dead-hangs or pull-ups just stick x number of fingers (with long-term goal of not needing to use this hand) in the snaplink and do the pull-up off whatever hold on the board. If I'm feeling brave/silly/crazy (you choose :), I can drop the hand lower again to a workbench which is at hip height.
the pulley is there for if I'm using a weightbelt - I can clip the belt into me and loop it through the pulley. means that it reduces my bodyweight so there's less weight to hold. Haven't used it like this in quite a while but it works!
The major weakness I've found from using the board is that it's very specific. I.e. you don't have to move into specific positions like you would when you're actually climbing. The only way I can simulate it here is to put a chair back a few feet from the board, stick a foot on it and hang that way. It works the core this way also.
Anymore questions, just let me know......