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In January 2014, I've moved to a whole new site!

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Saturday, March 15, 2008

The new training board

KILDARE, IRELAND (Usual Suspect's blog) - It's a Friday evening, what else are you going to do only go and do some training? O.k., maybe not for all, but it seems a good idea for me :)
Still though, it's a wonderful feeling just having the inclination to go climb, and just turn up at your own personal climbing wall. Crank up the stereo, a quick warm-up and then just start working hard. A 90 minute session today, it's good to see quick adaptions to the new wall, it's (steep) angles, and it's (gritty) holds.
Initial impressions? I can hang comfortably one-handed from all single-joint holds but moving between them is another story. If they're close together, no problems but add in bigger moves and I'm in trouble. In short, I'm suffering from too-much-time-on-a-fingerboard Syndrome. Easily recognised and easily fixed however so it won't take long to sort this out.
While I haven't been training as much as I like this year (lacking in interval sessions basically), my strength levels are pretty high so can't complain. Pulled my first almost-one-armer in a long while recently so must be doing something right....

Still though, most important thing to fix? get a more stable routine going - getting to bed and 3am twice in one week meaning serious lack of sleep completely defeats the purpose of training - you're body just doesn't get the same benefits as when it's getting lots of rest!

Image: some of the holds on the 60 degree board :) yum..........


  1. one handed hanging from those edges should be enough to get you up most 8's no? Can't wait to see that wall man!

  2. Hello. This post is likeable, and your blog is very interesting, congratulations :-). I will add in my blogroll =). If possible gives a last there on my blog, it is about the Impressora e Multifuncional, I hope you enjoy. The address is http://impressora-multifuncional.blogspot.com. A hug.

  3. @Dave: o.k., maybe not one-handed from that edge but all the of the ones on my fingerboard! Although I'm close to hanging these pretty well now :)
    You've an open invite sitting ready and waiting for the next time you're in Dublin :)

    Hope you got out for some cragging over the weekend! Afraid I'm only back in Nige's now so won't make that phonecall tonight....