What's your rock shoe of choice?
My current shoes for training - crap Boldrini's (although might just be a bad batch) and new Team 5.10's (outrageously good). No, they don't make be any stronger but perhaps the rumours that down-turned shoes might be worth half a grade are true after all........
Image: Taken after day two of the train-myself-till-my-arms-fall-off campus and bouldering sessions this week, routes on Tuesday and Wednesday to go :)
I've been in 5.10 Anasazi's for what? 11 years!!! Jaysus! Guess i'm a creature of habit.... on my way out to shops now though to try something different for 2010 - i'll report back later :o)
ReplyDeleteawesome! 11 years in same shoes :)
ReplyDeleteI've been through:
FiveTen Anazazi lace-ups (2-3 pairs)
FiveTen Anazazi velcros (2-5 pairs)
La Sportiva Miuras (1)
FiveTen Gallileos (1)
FiveTen Dragons (1)
FiveTen Team 5.10e (1)
Boldrini Apache (1)
Red Chili unknowns (1)
Red Chili unknowns (1)
Longest lasting shoe? Dragons (purchased in Dec 2007 - still being used)
Favorite shoe - Dragons :)
Should have had potential - Boldrini's
Worst overall- Chili's (all I've worn - don't suit my feet).
For the relatively short amount of time I've been climbing, I've been through an embarrasing number of pairs of shoes! The current line up is:
ReplyDeleteDragons - Fantastic for heelhooking, but so painful!
Anasazi whites - You could edge on a carbon atom in these bad boys
Boreal Jokers - Comfy all day shoes
Jet7's - My favourite, they kick ass!
In the grave yard:
Sportiva katanas - did not like
Scarpa stix - sold as they didn't fit right
Anasazi greens - very good, might get another pair at some point
Blue anasazi slippers - Alright. Might get them resoled sometime.
Crap montrails - crap
Crap Galileos - Crap
Yes I have an obsessive personality, don't judge me! :-P I think I'll settle on Jet7's and Anasazi lace ups from now on. Best of the bunch.
Hey Paul, interesting you didn't like the FiveTen Galilleo's - they were my sending shoe on my first big world tour, climbed most of my projects that year. I thought they were pretty underrated - a slightly comfier version of the lace-up Anazazi's :)
ReplyDeleteI am shocked that you all remember the number of shoes you have trashed or is my memory failing? In my case, Five tens - trashed many, too many actually. Feel free to donate to Barry's climbing shoe fund! Neal, will hopefully see you in Sheffield in the not too far future!
ReplyDeleteDon't know why, but I never really felt the love for the Galilleos. Something about the shape of the heel I didn't like, and they didn't fit right around the big toe area. Not that fond of the Anasazi velcroes either. Lace ups all the way! I suppose the Jet7's are the exception that proves the rule. Whatever that means :-P
ReplyDeleteThe worst thing is now that someone has said they (Jet7's) are great, 5.10 wil undoubtedly stop making them in the next 6 months!
Hey Barry, good to hear from you :) definitely look forward to catching up in the coming weeks.
ReplyDeleteAs for your climbing fund, you try live on a teacher training salary :) I'm going to be trad climbing this summer in Team5.10's cause I won't be able to afford a pair of comfy shoes! LOL
@Paul: about the Jet7's, that'll be just like the original Dragons...sniff sniff * - forgot about those (my memory must be dying too, Barry :), now they were/are the best shoe I've ever tried on....
Not to forget the V10's and the pink Anasazi laceups...... why 5.10? why?
ReplyDeleteDon't get too upset Paul, we'll all just have to get better so we can climb in mountaineering boots :)
ReplyDelete