|Breakdown the movement above: left toe turned in, left knee pushed across, pushing out of right leg, locking from right shoulder, reaching left. Advanced or just basic climbing skills?|
I guess it's got me thinking that 'advanced' techniques is really just a culmination of a lot of factors - movement, strength, speed, psychological, etc. As an example see this video (unfortunately no embedding from Dave Graham's website, The Island....) from Rocklands. There's two points that I would consider as advanced:
- the determination and mental strength to give it all even if questioning whether it's do-able, possible, etc
- the point at 3:00 when he jumps for the hold and in the same swing, is able to push his foot into exactly the placement he knew was marked for the next position. His mind is already ahead of the swing that he executes after jumping.
I guess I feel that anything that goes beyond the basic things you (should) learn when you start climbing. If anything many sports are pretty 'basic' in nature - see the ideas of swimming, running, etc - but what I'd regard as 'advanced' is optimizing to perfection (or to the best you possibly can) all of the various components (the start, implementing the power, pacing, etc) that make you faster/better.
The (random, picked out of a pile) photo above of Naomi - is it all basic? (and by this, could you take a relative novice with some instruction/experience) and expect him to replicate this or is it something that has to be developed? All thoughts welcome.....
The other side of it is that learning and teaching this sort of thing is tricky. I was in error/inaccurate in those comments when I said that high performance sports people usually are quite poor coaches. That's not necessarily the case, but a lot of the time it is, and the people who make the best teachers/trainers/coaches are those who have a good standard so that they understand the item they're trying to teach, but not so high that they've forgotten how to explain as it comes so naturally to them. Sharma in the previous post, would be regarded as someone who is exceptional in the sport, but not necessarily the best person for describing/explaining how he's so good.
Anyone thoughts on this? Coaching isn't really common in climbing in Ireland yet so these are questions ahead of the curve (nothing new for me on this blog :) but it's a really interesting topic!